Afwan

My last days off before the end of my term, I am in Tiberias, visiting biblical sites. It is beautiful; the Sea of Galilee is calm and the hills around it are still green. Tourists go from one site to another, following Jesus' footsteps. I do the same. Most of them are wearing a cross around their neck and, just in case you’ve missed it, they are wearing a little sticker saying "Christian pilgrimage tour.” They kiss holy doors and holy rocks of all kinds, in adoration of Jesus’ deeds. Pretty much everything here is holy! I cannot escape them.

I am at the Church of the Beatitudes. According to Matthew’s gospel, Jesus pronounces his famous eight Beatitudes on a mount—Sermon on the Mount; the Church then overlooks the Sea of Galilee, the gardens are stunning, the site is peaceful. When you go inside the Church, you can read the text of the Beatitudes… Blessed are the poor in spirit, the ones who mourn, the meek, the ones who thirst for righteousness, the merciful, the pure of heart, the peacemakers, the ones who are persecuted. Everyone visiting the Church is praying or singing, remembering Jesus’ life and words. No doubt everyone knows the Beatitudes by heart!

However, I am pretty sure most of them will not meet any Palestinian or if they do, it will be by accident and they won’t even notice the person speaks Arabic. I always thought Christians were the first ones to denounce oppression and injustice; here, in the Holy Land, the fight is put on hold I suppose. Not many Christians touring Jesus’ land will inquire about the “other” side of the Wall.

Before leaving the site, I go to the bathroom. The woman who cleans and takes care of the bathroom is Palestinian. She speaks Arabic and she is Muslim; she is clearly the only one around here. Who will pay attention to her? They are all absorbed by Jesus’ words after all!

On my way out, I see her and I say Shukran (which means “thank you” in Arabic). Her face lights up and she offers me a wonderful smile as she says Awfan (which means “you’re welcome” in Arabic). At the end of the day, that’s all I remember and I can still hear her say: Awfan! And I wonder what Jesus said, really, on this very mount—how do you say “you’re welcome” in Aramaic?